Location: Kaweka Ranges
Author: Satyam Bhatt
Participants: Satyam
Date: 28th - 31st January 2025
Day 01: Jafa land to sunny Hawke’s Bay
Tuesday morning saw me leaving the jafaland at 08:30 (after I overslept), followed by a pretty uneventful drive all the way up to Taupō for some last minute Pak’nSave and pizza by the lake, appreciating beautiful Ruapehu. After quick refuelling, began the drive on SH5 trying not to get driven off the road by camper van (yes you, the French couple, im talking about you). I found myself at the end of highway at around 16:00, after a quick break at the nearby fuel station, I started my journey to Makahu saddle car park in the kawekas. After driving my dusty yet trusty Aqua on a recommended 4WD track, I arrived at the car park just before 17:30.
After quickly sorting my gear, I hit the Makahu spur upto the wee Dominie hut, arriving up at the hut just after 19:30, only to find that I, in fact was the only one up there. After frolicking around for a while, made some dinner (ilysm radix nutrition) and settled in for the night.
Day 02: Windy ridge
The 2nd day began with strong winds greeting me early in the morning, at around 08:00, it started to quiet down a bit, and I decided to just send it instead. After struggling to stay upright and having to almost crawl just to get across the spur, I decided to drop the plan to summit the Kaweka J and take the longer but less exposed northern ridge route to the back ridge hut. Just at the end of the ridge, I heard what sounded like a gun shot echoing in the valley to my far left (Manson country, perhaps!?). My legs were happy to see the descent down to the rocks ahead stream providing water to back ridge hut.
I was at the hut at the planned time of 10:30 (yay!) and was thus rewarded by a sika deer’s trophy head waiting for me by the hut door. I decided to have an early brunch of wraps, peanut butter and mango jerky (give me a Michelin star already), followed by a shot of disappointment in the form of finding an empty bottle of Brandy. Unbeknownst to me, while wandering around the hut, I came across a meat safe storage thing, and with no clue whatsoever, I opened it to be jump scared by the sika meet hanging on the inside. After stuffing my mouth with lollies to get my appetite back, I was enroute to back ridge biv. After running off the track a couple time and a recovery op for my fallen hiking pole, I found myself at a clearing at Maminga providing epic views over the Kaimanawas with Ruapehu as the backdrop.
While making my way to the back ridge biv, first I heard and then saw a father- son duo, after quickly catching up to them, I learned that they were the ones to hunt the sika back at the hut and were also enroute to the biv for some more hunting with 2 more of their mates. We arrived at the back ridge biv, after quick succession to find 2 hunters napping out under a tree with their guns and bows lined up on the other side. After chatting and exchanging the plans, I too retired for a quick nap under the shade. It was 13:30, and the Rocks ahead hut was now just under 2 hours and an easy descent away. I was made aware about the strong winds and rain clouds rolling in on late afternoon of 30th staying up to late morning the next day.
It was at this moment; I decided to push all the way up to venison tops hut instead of staying at Rock ahead hut (initially planned spot for 2nd night). I decided to drop the plan to bag rocks ahead biv, as it woud have added another 45-60 min towards the manson country, and I was also sceptical about using the cable way to cross the Ngaruroro River. After filling up chilled water from the river and preventing myself from swimming into the beautiful river, I crossed the river via 3 wire bridge. The initial trail was very gentle uphill which steadily turned into relatively steep uphill climb all the way until the clearing at Venison tops at 1490m. I found myself at the venison tops hut (aka Tira lodge aka Kelvinator lodge) at 18:45, 3 whole hours after I left the rocks ahead hut (the sign said 2 hours). Quick look through the logbook, and I found that there has been no one up to at the hut for past 10 days. After being slightly creeped out at the fact yet also loving and appreciating the fact that I didn’t have to share the hut with anyone, I made some freeze-dried pasta, read the logbook and was able to scroll Instagram for an entirety of 2 minutes, before deciding to pass out on the comfy DOC mattress.
Day 03:
After snoozing my alarm till fog outside the window was clear enough for me to see the long drop, I decided to step out of the bed and started getting ready. I was on the trail just after 09:00, after walking almost for 2 and a half hours, and a STEEP descent, I was at the Ballard hut. After prepping myself for the brutal uphill climb to the junction, I left the hut enroute to the whetu at 1650m reaching there just after midday. After soaking in the panoramic views of the rugged kawekas.
From the whetu, it was ridge walking towards the highest point of kaweka j. At around 14:00, staying true to the prediction, the rain clouds rolled in with rather light breeze. Luckily, I got let off easily, compared to other stories I have read/heard. After going up and down the ridge trying not to lose sight of the next pole, all while pretending im in LOTR, I was back at the junction of the kaweka J summit. From there it was easy going, tracing my steps back to the dominie hut. Just when I was about to get to the hut, I saw 2 figures emerging out of what was now thick fog, making the way up towards the summit. Upon, seeing my surprised look, they said they were just going to see how it’s like and will turn back down should the visibility go even down.
I settled in the Dominie hut just after 15:30 and claimed one of the 2 beds. Soon after, I heard the commotion outside the hut, and there they were the couple I passed earlier. They decided to pitch their tents as there was only 1 bed left. It started pouring shortly after. I made some gourmet tuna wraps and Thai curry and retired to the bed.
Day 04: Back to the jafaland
Morning of day 04 was the best one so far. I was rewarded with an epic cloud inversion. I took my time with the views, as it was just under an hour long downhill to the car park.
As I started getting closer to the car, my worry about the car being pinned down by other car faded.
After checking out the Makahu saddle hut, I changed into a fresh pair of cloth and decided to head to Hastings for a well-earned post-hike meal. After devouring that mean Indian curry, made my way to the city of Napier, did a quick drive by on Marine parade and then to the bluff hill.
Hit the road at around 16:00, pit stop in Taupō for some gelato, dinner in Hamilton, was among the jafas by 22:00.
From windy ridges to unexpected "meat"ings, this tramp had it all — the highs, the lows, and everything in between. Already planning my next escape out of jafaland.
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